After our long but scenic train ride from Oslo we pulled into Bergen, the second largest city in Norway with a population of around 500,000. Our friend Google Maps suggested we could easily tow our suitcases to the nearby harbour and our hotel. Its assessment was correct but failed to advise that a lot of Bergen is cobbled, which is not a wheelie case’s friend.

Check in at the hotel was routine enough but in the Reception we queued with American and Chinese guests. Clearly jostling with these two superpowers did make me reflect on their potential hostilities. In this case the Americans were older but bigger and may have seemed favourites in a skirmish but the smaller Chinese had bigger suitcases (containing who knows what?) and may be better prepared? After all Chinese tourists always come on group tours with a Chinese guide and they may have been drilled, like in the film Zulu, to fall quickly into a formation to see off the Americans. I need not have worried as the buffet breakfast reaffirmed American superiority. After all who could stop a 17 stone Senior (from Des Moines) armed with a plate groaning with everything cooked in one outstretched hand and in the other hand a plate loaded with fruit and pastries advancing toward you at 15 mph with no desire (or ability) to stop even if he wanted to.

On entry our room’s thermometer advised we were enjoying 26.5°C! I fiddled with the device on the wall that seemed like an air conditioning control. Nothing happened. At Reception I reported the issue for the assistant to confirm that it was in fact a heating unit only and there was no air con. “We are experiencing a heat wave. Our hotel doesn’t usually need air con.” Further discussion helpfully (not) suggested opening the windows in the room. That would let in more heat we thought! Sadly our two nights were terribly hot and uncomfortable.

However, in the meanwhile Bergen, despite high heat and sunshine, was a delight. We found sanctuary in another Irish bar for refreshment, one of four Irish bars in the harbour area!

The harbour area was very attractive with shops, bars and restaurants all in an easy walking distance from our accommodation. We investigated the surrounding streets and they were also vibrant and attractive.

After an evening of orientation the next day we eventually took in the funicular rail ride up the mountain overlooking the harbour. It gave a spectacular sight overlooking the fjords and surrounding parts of the city.

The gift shops were numerous and eventually we succumbed to a couple of purchases although we gave the trolls a miss.

Norwegian towns are laid out on a grid system and easy to navigate. We were here in peak season and many overseas nationalities were evident. I found a couple of record shops to visit and was also able to sneak back to our inferno (hotel) to get live coverage of the Tour de France.

The local Fortress Museum was interesting in covering the Nazi occupation and Bergen’s military history as a settlement. Norway was part of Sweden, but autonomous, until 1905 and was neutral in both world wars. Clearly Hitler overlooked that it 1940.

This museum had an exhibition dedicated to Ukraine. Norway’s worry is evident.

It made me reflect on the surprisingly strong commitment to Ukraine by the EU countries and their neighbours. After Europe’s decades of scant interest in anything warlike or an effective military deterrent there now seems to be a resilience and inclination to spend on their militaries. I’m sceptical that this expenditure will result in a cohesive and effective military force but it may be the only way to go. The threat of Russia must seem very real if part of your country currently borders with it or has been occupied by it (or the USSR) in the last 80 years. Of course your awakening is accelerated if the USA indicates Europe’s defence isn’t a priority and after decades of free loading you can sort it out yourselves.

Braving the cobbles again we wheeled our cases to the docks to board the Polaris, part of the Havila line. Ambling up the coast we’d go north eventually beyond the Artic Circle.

…..please behave like Norway and be cold. After all I have a suitcase full of hats, gloves, coats and pullovers.