Tag Archives: england

Hadrian’s Wall 2025 – Last Day (4)

I suspect it may be plain if you’ve followed this trip that I’d spoilt John and now it was time to bring him back down to earth. In summary, the sumptuous countryside, the antiquities, the museums, my scintillating company/guide skills and lastly the up market hotel in Hexham, The Beaumont. The latter cost £158 per night, which isn’t the way I usually roll but when divided by two it becomes more like it. However, you can take the boy out of Yorkshire but not Yorkshire out of the boy and the £17 breakfast option was a sausage too far. Anyway John absorbed the blow well and got his face around his Egg McMuffin.

Again another chilly morning (and as it turned out chilly day) and we left the Hexham rush hour for Corbridge and a route that generally followed the River Tyne as the river progressed to the estuary and then the North Sea.

The road itself was straightforward to navigate and eventually gave way to a cycle path that actually took us all the way to the end of the Wall.

A former rail bridge now a path

Along the path we came across many walkers who were either starting out on the Hadrian’s Wall trek or finishing it. As we cycled we came across George Stephenson’s childhood home.

The home of George Stephenson the ‘Father of the Railways’ and the inventor of the steam locomotive

I have to say the walk through Newcastle is straightforward but involved a selection of Zebra, Puffin, Pelican and Toucan Crossings. (We both know you have no idea about the difference between these various ‘bird’ crossings yet the Highway Code would expect you to know. Shame on you). It might take a day or two at the start but for these hikers but the change to rugged paths and splendid views was going to be a tonic when it came.

Stops along the way were few and far between but we eventually came to rest at a Sicilian café a couple of miles from the centre. John liked the coffee so much he bought some to make back in Hampshire.

Soon we were in the heart of the city and passed under the various bridges before finding the continuing Route 72 signs toward Tynemouth.

Overall Day 4 was an easy ride with little climbing. In discussing the route beforehand John had been surprised that our local map had identified so many Morrisons. Me too. On closer examination John had misidentified the signs for the Newcastle Metro!

These ’72’ paths were not the actually route of the Wall: the wall was a little further north in a more urban part of the city.

At Wallsend we came to rest at Segedunum (‘Strong Fort’) Fort. This location was the site of the first fort along the Wall in the east. Up until the last few decades it was a large housing estate. They cleared it and exposed the foundations. A villa that housed some exhibits was closed as was part of the main building. In fact this whole site is run by an amalgamation of five local councils and was shabby in places and a little unloved. The Vindolanda Trust museums were frankly on another level of presentation and care.

The Fort was sited here by the Romans rather than along the estuary at Tynemouth because the fort could ‘police’ the countryside to the east with its view of the land. Also on the south bank there was another fort (Arbeia) should the pesky Scots/Picts fancy a swim. A reconstruction of what the original Wall looked like had been built. It must be added that a vallum and other impediments would have made it a completely daunting task to overcome. It’s also here that the Wall ends.

The site of the Fort
A reconstruction of the Wall and the end of the Wall

With photos taken we retraced our route back to the centre. Near the bridges we had the slightly daunting challenge of finding a route up the hill to where the station was located. A combination of bridge construction works and a road surface that was shamefully potholed made the ascent memorable. At the Station we booked the earliest train we could get for the hour’s journey south to York and until it arrived we ate chocolate and John listened to me moan about how cold I was.

In summary it’s got to be one of the best short rides in Europe with so much to see, so many important and unique places to stop and stay or eat and terrific rail links south to either end. We had a great time and John has passed Module 1 of cycle touring.

Hadrian’s Wall Ride 2025 – Day 3

We rolled out of Haltwhistle noting a distinct fall in temperature! As a man with drawers, in York, full of cycling kit for all the seasons I was rueful that I had believed the weather forecast. It advised that the week would get warmer rather than cooler and so hadn’t packed some leggings, a heavier cycling jacket, a long sleeve jersey and a buff. However, the granny wheel action got some blood pumping as our route abandoned the lower part of the valley near the Tyne and an ascent began up to Vindolanda. It was just before 9:30am when we got close to the museum with lots of time to spare and so I suggested Plan B – ‘let’s go up to the actual Wall’.

Cycling up the B6318, the former Roman military road below the Wall, we headed east to Housesteads Fort. On this roller coaster of a road we endured the chilly easterly headwind. On arrival at the Fort car park it was busy with a large group of walkers who sounded like they were either Dutch, Belgian Flemish or Welsh (with heavy colds). Climbing up to the Wall we set foot on the path and took some photos.

Practising to be a fierce guard on the Wall (fail)
On the Wall

I regaled John about my last visit here where leading some walkers I had the responsibility for a very elderly but determined lady who despite my request that she forsook the walk in the heavy rain and slippery conditions added to my concern by telling me that she’d had a replacement knee and shoulder. I let her walk this brief section before slipping down to the lower path yet I still wondered how long the Air Ambulance would take to get from Newcastle or Carlisle. After this we visited The Sill. This is a youth hostel with a very nice café. Fortified we headed up to Vindolanda.

This is ‘one I took earlier’ of a model of the fort layout. Now mysteriously not there now as you enter the site

This Fort and its subsequent small settlement had predated the Wall. The settlement was outside the Fort Walls and this is where the British lived and provided services, food etc for the Romans. Over the centuries Vindolanda had had nine separate forts. Four had been timber and the other five stone. When a Roman cohort left they broke down the fort. The next set of Romans built a new fort. It is this destruction that led to several foundations being compacted in wet ground. This wet ground preserved the artifacts that tell the story of the Fort over the 450 years of its occupation. The current custodians are very concerned that climate warming as it’s drying out the ground and probably destroying/damaging anything that is currently preserved in the ground.

Paddy gave a chilly tour of the site before we dived inside for something hot to eat. The museum itself is equally as fascinating and shows many of the artefacts.

Paddy, a retired accountant from Carlisle, in full flight

The weather had slightly warmed and we remounted for the cycle into Hexham. Most of this was delightful and the path took us beside the railway and Tyne before we ended up in the centre and our hotel.

To celebrate the Roman connection we had a pizza and then took a stroll around the town.

John waiting for a Stradivarius
Evening bowls

On a bright and clear evening this was delightful as we were invited to take up bowls! We declined and continued through the park before ending up at a violin repair shop. Here a lady told us all about the surprising skill set of the owner of the shop strangely located here in the sticks. Our next stop was for a beer that turned out to only be a half as the fire alarm went off!